Linz

"When an opponent declares, ‘I will not come over to your side, ‘ I calmly say ‘Your child belongs to us already…What are you? You will pass on. Your descendants, however, now stand in the new camp. In a short time they will know nothing else but this new community."

- Adolf Hitler, in a speech given on November 6, 1933, In Politics/Nazism

Interesting .but a little strange to visit the place where Hitler grew up. He had great plans for this city, now a place that most Austrians avoid. Hitler's identity was in development here with his early motivation as an artist. After that failing him for several attempts, he found discipline and his own identity in the military. Natural born leader was an early trait of his even in early school. So interesting to read about his history and where his wires got crossed.

I enjoyed my visit to Linz, although brief. It is not the city that I expected - industrial and smoke-filled. Instead, it appears a bit modern and relaxed. Excellent hilltop views and friendly people. I especially enjoyed my visit to my friend Andreas whom I met in New Zealand 2 yrs ago and it was nice catching up and talking about the ole days including the crazy times in that strange but wonderful hostel in Auckland that gives me so many memories! Magical place even though I thought it was a dump.

i want to give a mention to the nice bar we attended called, Exxtrablatt. The ambiance was nice, relaxed with loads of character spilling through it's seams. Wall to wall pictures of old American movie stars representing their movie with the likes of James Dean, Marilyn Monroe, and all those beautiful actors and actresses from the 40's. But most of all, the friendly bartenders taking care of everyone, Harry, Austrian and Rio from Japan. Not only were they happy and accommodating but honestly, that is the BEST service I've experienced on my trip. It was a pleasure enjoying your place and thanks for the special shot of Engeleszellar Magen bitter which is the REAL Jägermeister! Nice.

I could write about the train ride experience but not much time. I will say it is a must-see and a beautiful ride.

"History is always written by the winners, not the losers." my friend, Andreas Mülhberger

Next!

Travelling to more than one destination, one country is exhilerating and empowering at times. Other moments tap into feelings you thought you never had in you. Its difficult to adjust.

Lonliness is a feeling with different forms, I think. The obvious, being completely alone. The worst, feeling alone when you're surrounded by people. It gets even more challenging when you look like the minority. I can't wait! You can't help but experience this feeling while on a journey. It is ok to have this feeling just as it is ok to feel love & anger. How we deal with them is the importance.

Other feelings creep up for each traveller. I've heard some have a lost feeling, asking themselves in isolation, "What am I doing?". Some travellers I've seen don't let go of things they have from home. It is a complex groove that you must find for yourself. For me, it has been a challenge to just acknowledge the feeling as it comes up and see what it is and where it comes from. This process takes up much time and energy. That's all I have now. How are we supposed to do this when we have a job?

Another version encountered whilst traveling from place to place is that feeling of meeting other travellers with whom you can enjoy their company. Some are from other countries. Most speak English. If you're lucky, one or two live down the street from you at home (just happened!) Then, you part ways - and it's almost always suddenly. Before you know it, you have 22 white pieces of paper in your bag with nothing but email addresses written on them and a new traveller moving into the bed they just left. Again, you go through the hellos, where are you from, how long are you traveling and voilá, a new person to hang out with, if you like! However, it is strange to have people come in and out of your life so rapidly. Some you might see again. Others you may completely forget. Moments you spend together may have a special or magical quality to them - you almost always don't realize that until later. No other style of life breeds this flow except travelling.

Spoiled & Wet

Life is pretty easy at the moment, I must admit. Shock to the system has occured with low language barriers, low traffic, nice accommodations, handy bike, and a cooler climate. Tirolies claim this is the worst summer they've ever seen and I can understand why. I would be hard-pressed to believe that we've had more sunny days than rainy. In fact, we're not supposed to see the Sun until this weekend - maybe! Although I just contracted a cold, have the chills on occasion and remain inside until there is light, I know that all in all, life is taking a break. (I think I'll break down and buy a stocking hat today. Yes, in August).

I do want to acknowledge some fantastic accommodations that I've found. Thanks for Lonely Planet for NOT including this place. For it is that reason that I enjoy a different set of travelers. Nepomuk's B&B has everything a traveler might need from comfy beds, charming character, clean, neat, well cared for, family run, above their desert café, centrally located but on a quiet *alley*, suitable (but small) kitchen, large rooms, fancy breakfast in the café with the ocassional pastry included, etc. What really makes the place for me is Almüt, the daughter that runs the joint! She is the nicest, most lovely hostel or B&B host I've ever come across. The true sense of *accommodation* must have been contrived with her in mind because I truly feel at home - a little too much. Your first tip is when she first introduces you to the place and she sits down with each person individually for almost 20 minutes to talk you through the town map, activites, how to get here and there, what to do for free, where the best bars are located, food, etc. "Vhere do you vant to go? Vat do you vant to do", she asks each and every person. She definitely personalizes your experience and wants you to have the best time possible. She is always smiling and really loves what she is doing here - it shows! You can feel her pride in her place and the town she grew up in. Beautiful! Thanks Almüt, especially for my fresh squeezed lemon juice tea and local honey for my cold yesterday.

Tirol Update

Although sometimes it takes me a while to see the typical sights, I prefer to learn about a place much differently. Screw the tour buses; tours, tours, tours! It's all about money and taking a herd of cattle off to some view point, say a few words and shuttle you back so you can spend even more money in the tourist town. Gosh, I really HATE this. Gaudy trinket shops, expensive jewelry that was made and cut in another country, special fruit and herbal teas, scarves and your customary T-shirts. And people buy this stuff! Ok, I'm guilty of buying patches for my bag but other than that. . . Within the course of 3 days a typical tourist prolly has *seen* more than myself in 2 weeks. However, I believe I have learned more about the people, attitudes, language, culture and customs more deeply than they'll ever get from a tour.

Ok Lora, you ask, so what have you learned? In addition to some language learning (which is still weak on my part although my pronunciation takes first place in the beginner forum), I have learned some subtle things about Tirol versus the rest of the country. Tirol, I like to think of, is like a state within Austria. Nicely placed, I could travel on the north side of these mountains and be in Germany or go south and I'm in Italy. That's excellent! Tirolies are very different to the Vienesse, as I'm told. Everything from their language, pronunciation, attitude, prim and properness versus the *mountain* village of Innsbruck are major differences although I'm still learning about them. knowledge about the language in every country I venture off to has been such a history and culture lesson. It is difficult to explain; you must come here to experience it for yourself. How people feel about their language and the different dialects is actually pretty interesting. Even just learning about the various bier (beer) selection is a new chapter everywhere I go.

The other magical thing gained by my unique exploring methods is learning about various pieces of knowledge from the locals. Such as, good mountain biking trails and huts, swimming lakes, special destinations that you won't hear about on the internet, unique food dishes I would never order on my own, quiet little hang outs that don't open until after midnight and just look like every other shop you pass by in the daytime. Meeting the real people that live here or grew up here that open up themselves to tell you who they are and their feelings about the world! That is special to me. Even learning where people work and what they do with their lives - factory workers, hostel and bed & breakfast workers alike. A part of life I am unfamiliar with in America, not to say it isn't there, just not in my world.

One thing is for sure, you can count on finding the following wherever you go (in Europe):

-at least one Irish Pub in every town
-there are more The Body Shops than Starbucks!
-coffee is a learning experience und how to ask for it correctly
-smiling helps and I like to use the word, Beautiful (reciommendation) if I don't know what they said
-cars, esp. taxis are a force not to be reckoned with
-there is always some crazy drunk dude in a train station with his pants down or doing some ludicrous activity
-Ultimate Frisbee
-Guinness is my friend
-great vino
-confusing road signs
-music I've never heard before
-travel books in English
-(will add more since apparently I've forgotten some items)
-a serious lack of phones and forget finding a phone booth that is reasonably quiet

I'll get around to the sights; they'll always be here.

Selfishness?

Let's step back for a moment. . .

We can all prolly agree that most, if not all, countries have stray animals to some degree. Some more than others. So far Greece has been the worst of this trip (knowing though that more is yet to come). However, I heard a stunning story which I cannot verify as true but I can attest that more than one person validated it and I witnessed it to a lesser degree. I'd like to share this with you all since it is quite disturbing.

The hostel I stayed at (which I no longer recommend) in central Athens had a great location with roof top view of the Parthenon. Unfortunately, I saw a ton of stray dogs and cats - everywhere. In fact, stray cats are viewed as a proud Greek symbol - they' re on many postcards. I will say I saw a store vendor feeding a herd of stray cats proper cat food which was good to see. I also witnessed another store owner who took in stray dogs and cats. I only know this because I took him a poor, frightened little 12 week old kitten that had been trapped between a van's front tire and turning rod. I think she was ok but she was really shaken up.

My worse realization came from an Aussie, now Greek resident, who told me an unbelievable claim. As we sat around outside at 2 a.m. in front of the hostel admiring yet pittying all the stray dogs that were trotting down the street - all with collars on! She states that in August there a is large increase of stray dogs in Greece. I asked why. She said that August is the month that most Greeks go on vacation. Alot of Greeks have dogs but no one to care for them while they're away so they tie them up in the front of the house. The dogs get loose and go around town looking for food & water. Some die of starvation. Some get hit. Some manage but are skinny and in poor health. Hard to believe but if you were here and could get a feel for the culture, you might find the story a little easier to accept. Still shocking and really, should not be tolerated. (I haven't seen one stray in Innsbruck yet).

Light loaders on wheels

I got asked today by two road bikers which way to Munich. They quickly realized that although I spoke their native tongue, I was doing good to point out which way was North (which I really wasn't certain of). The two friendly men were from North Carolina and were riding around Europe on their nice road bikes - HUH! I looked around the back of their bikes thinking perhaps I missed their 'luggage' train. Nothing. They had next to nothing. Except for a large shoe box-sized bag which rode on the little rack above the back tire. I asked many questions since all the biking books here are in Duetche and this may be my Plan C. All they had with them were evening clothes for a meal, the riding clothes they had on, light toilettries, a spare tire and that's it. No rain gear either. They had come from Serbia 10 days ago and get in about 90 miles a day. They utilize hotels by night. As some of you already know, the network of bike paths throughout Europe allow bikers easy access across countries without hardly seeing a car. Now that's a thought!

Wheels

So I got me a bike yesterday. Bought it from this guy that does not speak English and my German sucks. We managed through the used bike process. It definitely has character. Fortunately a friend of his strolled along and happened to know English. We negotiated the deal after I gave him a list of things to fix and there you have it.

It's a Bianche mountain bike - definitely needs some love. I have no idea if it's a good brand but I seem to recognize the name. I realized that I no longer know anything about mountain bikes anymore. I think I took my mtn bike maintenance class back before the advent of Starbucks, if that gives you any clue. I paid 180€ for it and he wrote a note claiming to give me 50€ back at the end of the month. Great deal I think as this is an excellent town to get around in on a bike. All the other bikes I looked at yesterday were upwards of 800€ - used! I found one for the net proceeds of 240€, certainly nicer than mine but no attitude at all.

Dirty Old Men everywhere

How disgusting and not my favorite thing to see to start the day.

As I walked to the center of town this morning along a very well maintained bike path, I was in a great mood. The sun was shining, the birds chirpping, the clouds were almost ready to give up their view upon the highest peaks in the valley just above my residence. I had yet to see these shy glacier-formed mountain spires. I walked with a gentle smile.

But wait, WHAT! I looked up only to see the worst item upon an old man I would care NOT to ever see in my life. I didn't just see a bit or piece - saw the whole bloody damn thing as he, yea, no explanation needed. I doubt he was just watering the flowers for all I saw was a green bush. He grunted a bit as I looked away and tisked at him as I passed. A biker rode past me a few seconds later. Did she see. . . yep, she saw it too. Yikes, what a sight that plagues my memory even at this moment.

This is sadly not a sight in scarcity along my journey and I would bet the farm that it will only get worse. A continent showing horrible sights seemingly waif-like, daunting, grotesque, cruel forms of human beings. I turn a corner and there it is - worse than I have yet not seen, until now.

Closed? On vacation?

Yes, everyone needs a vacation - even those living in Innsbruck!

My first impression here in Innbruck this time of year is that alot of the locals are gone! Ya. I will bet this place has a different feel to it versus winter other than for the obvious reasons. Alot of hostels are booked OR don't have a kitchen as well as some are closed down - maybe for renovation. Having a bit of trouble finding a suitable accommodation with some sort of kitchen.

Am finding it difficult to find a bike for sale, used or new. Yes there are new bikes but most of the good selections are gone and all that are left for the season are expensive. Found 2 used bikes so far but thez (on this keyboard, y = z spatially, if I miss correcting) are just city bikes. Definitelz a town that warrants a bike and soon!

Popped my head into a record shop last night. Looking for some good music around town. According to mz Lonelz planet it seemed encouraging enough to find some good house music. Found out everzone is out of town and those clubs are closed in the summer. What a bummer. They do have hip hop! Ö(

Had a feeling today that perhaps I chose the wrong place for rehab until. . .

I did manage to find a work out facility that is verz nice called Bodz and Soul. And get this, girlfriend at the counter HOOOOKED my ass up! This month thez have a special for membership - 1st month free! That's it folks, I get mz month here for free. Even though I told her I was only here for a month. With mums the word and putting mz jaw back together, I smiled, bowed and signed all the forms. They have modern machines, free weights, cardio machines - same as the states nice facilities. They also have yoga, Tai Bo, spinning classes, etc. And if I'm lucky, she might hook me up with one of her friends who are physical therapists. I start tonight!

Those Canadians

Energy. A force that has many concepts. Some things derive energy from another source. Others create their own.

I had a lovely evening out while on Santorini island in Fira. The livliest of all the towns there with crazy "kids" bumping to techno versus a more mature spot with Garage House. Not my fav but I'll take it. Fortunately, my company was fab and fun. I met 3 male Canadians at the hotel- very friendly and harmless. Along with us, my new roommate, Amy, slide into this bar/club which was open roof style, white curtains, lounge couches, indirect lighting, circular bar - very nice and felt a bit Miami. Fruity drinks abound. Life was simple there. I did think it was strange that when you handed your money to the bartender, he in turn, handed it to some guy on my side of the bar who handled all money transactions.

The music was good - not bad and definitely stuff I could dance to at least early on. But to our dismay, no one was dancing. Absolutely no one. This was at 2 a.m. If not now, when? So without discussion, all five of us started dancing in the middle - it was so beautiful outside dancing at a bar overlooking the caldera! We all just looked at each other, smiling, laughing, taking turns dancing by ourselves and with each other - it was like home. One of the guys said, "if they won't dance on their own, they'll feel our energy and start dancing - watch!" Although it took another hour, at least 10 other people at a given time unfolded their arms and were dancing with us - nice! It seemed as though the Greeks just aren't very good dancers to American music but when Greek music came on, more of them got up to dance. Even some of the other girls that met us there (in their Paris Hilton outfits) were dancing with everyone, on top of the bar and even with me. It was a good vibe even with the late medleys - geesh, I really hate medley playing but the energy was too good to stop dancing.

Greek music is different. I heard a few different kinds - maybe I should say "music played in Greece". Some of it took a little getting used to - not really my flavor. Maybe my Dad might like it but I really didn't. Had a really hard folk sound with a old guy singing. There was this other kind of music with higher pitched guitar like the other kind but had, what I would identify as an influential sound from Turkey - sounded a bit Arabic. I preferred this sound and am eager to hear more when I get closer to the Middle East. I love the mysterious sound that kind of music gives off.

Change of Plan

Due to my right knee acting up again, I have decided to postpone my trip to the middle east and venture off to get some serious fitness, strengthening and rehab. I'm headed to Innsbruck, Austria via Munich on Wednesday, 8/3/05. Don't know where I'm staying yet but looking for some nice work out gym and a sports trainer that can give me more exercises that I can do on my own while i travel. It just hasn't been feeling very good, even on simple days.

Hoping to travel on to Cairo by 9/1.

Thanks to those of you that provided advice and suggestions for where to go and what to do. So great to have all you guys listening and supporting. I am fortunate to know you all.

Greek Cuisine

OK, let's talk food.
As you may or may not know, Greek cuisine consists of alot of cheese, meat, olive oil, tomatoes and fries (potatoes). Yes, fish too but aside from cod and shrimp, it's a little expensive for me (30 euros).

The feta is fantastic - not as smelly or what I would call, "stout" as we're accustomed to in the states. The Greek salad is served like a meal in itself - humongous! I think I already mentioned this before. They also attempt their version of Italian food. I had one good experience, and one not so good. Souvlaki is great! This dish resembles shish kabob but the meat is grilled and has great juicy flavor. I was also introduced to Saganaki by some English women I met at the hostel in Athens. This is fried cheese. It's pretty good actually - tasty!

The gyros are fantastic! In Fira here on Santorini island, there is a small "to-go" type place that, as I found out one morning (or late night - take your pick) is open until 7 a.m. for those crazies that stay out all night - freaks if you ask me! Anyway, the gyros there were The best for sure. Juicy, tangy with loads of zest and they serve them with, yes, fries. Everything comes with fries.

I had my first Mousaka and was not a fan although most people like it. Surprised to find out that the bottom layer (similar contruction to lasagna) was none other, fries.

I ordered a pizza here in Parrisa beach and requested pepperoni which was indicated on the menu. Yay, I thought- I'm tired of ham. Unfortunately, it was not what I expected - how silly of me. It looked and tasted more like sliced hot dog. Oh well.

I had the greatest iced coffee in all the land a few days ago in Oia. Fantastic and put Starbucks to shame. Simple but super tasty w/o all the fancy flavors - except chocolate, of course. It was so good but a mere 5 euros. Worth every penny of it if you consider the views (terrace was on the edge of the caldera) and the music (nice housey lounge music). The other favorite coffe is is Nescafe! Strange, I thought. But they serve it shaken, cold and with milk and ice - it's not bad.

Oh, most dinner meals are finished by serving the bill with a shot of Ouzo. So I'm wondering, which country do I need to go to get my meal served with Jager? Germany?

No Greek meal would be complete without a dog and/or cat making eyes with you! Although I do not consort to these themes at home, I did provide as much food as I could to them and so did many others. Strays are everywhere here - even on the islands. How do they not get hit by a car - correction, one got hit last night near the internet cafe I was pounding on. I think he was ok. I am more used to this experience now having seen it in Peru. At least there are no starving kids here! It is sad to see my "friends" in such need but they are used to it. Sleep during the day and then venture out at night for the big meals. They know how it works. Hard not to be affected by it. I promise i won't bring any home.

Service is, well, different. Seems to be consistently slow. That's normal. But seems unusual to me though is the Greeks WANT you to stay seated. They don't want you to leave the table. They welcome you to stay as long as you like. This is very different to the UK and America for that matter - they charge you extra to eat in AND want you to leave asap. The Greeks give this nice, welcoming feeling I think - they wait until you ask for the bill and give a funny look if you eat and then just leave. Nice change, I think. I don't like the UK manner for this - I can understand in busy times but when it's slow, I think it looks more attractive for a potential customer to see other people dining and not an empty restaurant.