Moving on Up

Cold weather hit (cold for Egypt, all things in perspective) in mid December and I decided my cement roof-top hotel was no longer adequate. Things hadn't changed much at Dahab hotel since I last stayed there. The same staff, same cats but new litter, same dingy rooms and part-time clean, shared bathrooms (this time with hot water) , and the same long-timers still taking up residence and staying up late drinking liquour/watching movies on Adam Katz's (www.geekeasy.com) Apple computer (now complete with speakers). I've decided to take up a shared residence with 2 other roommates near the area of Cairo University. It's nice compared to where I just came from, has a bit of sunlight, my own bathroom (with scalding hot water) & a small, unorganized kitchen. So nice to be able to make my very own cup of tea any time I like. Ah, the luxuries we take for granted. And you'll never guess what was the first thing I went out and bought. . . nice computer speakers encased in wood for my Ipod - now I have a home even if temporary.

The apartment search prior to finding this place was certainly an adventure; quite different to what we're accustomed to in the states. Couldn't seem to get ahold of a newspaper in English and there's no way of reading Arabic. So using advertisements was nearly void for me. I don't know many people here yet and had exhausted that idea within a day. Sitting around waiting for something to come to me definitely felt like waiting for paint to dry so I decided to go out on my own and conduct my own search, person to person.

If you could have watched me you would have laughed all afternoon. There are a few ways of looking for apartments and one day, I decided to use the more difficult, albeit, adventurous! Although one could hire a real estate type of individual which incurs a commision(sp?), I felt I could do this on my own or at least give it a try. I mean really, I have loads of time so why not see what that's all about. This type of search here entails going from apartment building to building and asking the doormen if they have anything available. I had a good friend help me with my Arabic phrases like stating what I'm looking for, explaining that I want something not expensive and I want it furnished and if they have nothing, where could I go to find this ( many of the doormen know the others in the neighborhood since they talk alot so it's common for them to keep up on what's available), locate the area I wanted to search and off I went. What a learning experience it was.

I hopped on the subway, got off in Doqqi (a fairly nice quiet area on the other side of the Nile from downtown) and set off for my prospective area. I quickly learned that the phrase I had learned regarding "not expensive" didn't get across to these people as the first place I looked at was 5,000EL/month. It was entirely too big at 3 bedrooms but definitely very nice. Although worth the look, this guy saw me and dollar signs walking down the street before I even reached him. I quickly learned that studio apartments just don't really exist here. Most flats are 3 bedrooms housing an entire family through most of their lives. Egyptians don't move - at all, during their life! In fact because of Nasserism, most families prefer their original flat handed down through the family because the rent is so cheap, if any at all. I've heard some are as low as 50EL/mo. however, I don't know this for certain. But it makes sense; jobs are low and pay is even lower. In Egypt you're either poor or very rich - there's not much in between.

As my search continued, my Arabic phrases resumed and I was met with smiles, helpfulness & an occasional "helwa Arabi" or "nice Arabic" phrase. It was surprising to see that no one had difficulty understanding me but of course, I could not understand much of what they said or asked me in return so although I walked up and down that neighborhood, I didn't find much to look at. I learned how these places operate though and learned that these doormen (boabs) live in a tiny room near the entrance to the buildings or maybe in the garage. These rooms are nothing nice and on a few occasions I sneaked a peak and saw a family with 2 kids, small room and perhaps small stove to cook on (just heard food being cooked). Others looked like just a tiny room with a mattress on the floor, boap sleeping, floor & walls dirty - that's it. How can they live like that? Free rent I suppose. Sometimes when looking for these guys they seem unrecognizable and most need a good yell in order to get their attention. Not my style of communication thus most of the buildings I walked by I didn't approach. All these guys seem to wear Galabea's (long gown worn by men which reminds me of a house coat) and if you see them outdoors near a building or washing a car, you just go over and ask them about a flat. Pretty strange but so is an American blonde walking around Doqqi on her own looking for a small studio apartment for rent!